展覽地點(diǎn)：Textile Conservation Gallery
展覽時(shí)間：2024年3月26日 - 2024年5月30日
主 辦：浙江省文化廣電和旅游廳、浙江省文物局
承 辦：中國(guó)絲綢博物館
協(xié) 辦：桐鄉(xiāng)市博物館
Organizer: Zhejiang Provincial Department of Culture Radio Television and Tourism，Zhejiang Provincial Cultural Heritage Bureau
Host:China National Silk Museum
Co-organizer: Tongxiang Museum
Location: Textile Conservation Gallery, China National Silk Museum
桐鄉(xiāng)濮院鎮(zhèn)舊稱“幽湖”“梅涇”，是明清時(shí)期江南五大名鎮(zhèn)之一，以生產(chǎn)精美絕倫的“濮絲”名揚(yáng)天下，明萬歷年間就以“日出萬匹綢”成為“嘉禾巨鎮(zhèn)”。有著悠久歷史的美麗幽湖，900多年來文化興盛，人才輩出。
2002年11月25日下午，桐鄉(xiāng)市博物館接到濮院鎮(zhèn)文化站報(bào)告，稱在楊家橋香海寺基建工地發(fā)現(xiàn)一座墓葬。桐鄉(xiāng)市博物館立即派員前往，根據(jù)墓葬的形制確定是一座明墓，遂于當(dāng)日展開搶救性發(fā)掘清理。經(jīng)清理，棺內(nèi)陪葬的器物有藍(lán)釉碗兩只，筷一副，木匣子一只，以及墓主身著服飾一套。雖尸骨已基本腐爛，但其所穿的服飾及覆蓋包裹尸體的被子、棉布等保存尚好。墓主里外共穿了9層衣服，衣服的質(zhì)地有緞、絹、綺和各種較為復(fù)雜的組織品種等，在頭上戴著做工精細(xì)的網(wǎng)巾和烏紗帽，身著四合如意云紋緞獬豸補(bǔ)圓領(lǐng)袍，圓領(lǐng)、右衽、寬擺、大袖，前后綴有相同的用金線繡成的獬豸補(bǔ)，是明代典型的風(fēng)憲官員常服款式。迄今為止，衣物能保存如此完好的，這在浙江省所發(fā)現(xiàn)的明代墓葬中，并不多見，反映出當(dāng)時(shí)較高的織造工藝水平。墓中伴出的還有鏤雕木腰帶銙、寫有“御史為罪囚事今將天順五年六月初一日……”字樣的文書，這些隨葬品也為判定墓主的身份及其所隨葬的紡織品的性質(zhì)提供了依據(jù)。據(jù)考，該墓墓主為曾任河南按察使僉事的楊青，卒于天順初年。
2014年1月，紡織品文物保護(hù)國(guó)家文物局重點(diǎn)科研基地（中國(guó)絲綢博物館）接受委托，前往桐鄉(xiāng)市博物館進(jìn)行紡織品文物信息提取、編制修復(fù)方案，并在方案獲批后對(duì)12件文物實(shí)施了修復(fù)。
這12件紡織品文物由中國(guó)絲綢博物館修復(fù)完成，此次展覽既是修復(fù)成果的展示，也是該墓葬紡織品文物的首次亮相。
Tongxiang Puyuan Town, formerly known as "Youhu" and "Meijing", is one of the five famous towns in the southern China during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is famous for producing the silk which called "Pu silk". With a long history of Youhu, culture has flourished for more than 900 years, and talents have come out in large numbers.
On November 25, 2002, the Tongxiang Museum received a report from the Puyuan Town Culture Station, which said a tomb had been unearthed at the construction site of Xianghai Temple in Yangjiaqiao. Promptly dispatching staff to the location, they identified the find as a Ming Dynasty tomb based on its structural characteristics and immediately initiated a salvage excavation. After clearing the tomb, two blue-glazed bowls, a pair of chopsticks, one wooden box, and a set of clothes worn by the tomb's occupant were found. Despite the skeleton having largely decayed, the burial clothing and textiles such as quilts and cotton blankets that enshrouded the body were impressively preserved.
The tomb occupant was dressed in nine layers of garments made from a variety of fabrics, including satin damask, plain weave silk, damask on tabby, featuring intricate weaves. He wore a finely headband and a black gauze cap on his head, a stain damask robe with clouds and haechi badge, round collar, wide hem, large sleeves, front and back adorned with identical embroidery XieZhi sewed with gold thread, which is a typical style of officials' regular costume in the Ming Dynasty. Such well-preserved apparel is uncommon among Ming Dynasty graves uncovered in Zhejiang Province, reflecting the high standards of textile craftsmanship of the era. Additional finds included a carved wooden belt buckle and official documents saying ‘Imperial censor was prisoned for the crime until June 1st in the fifth year during the reign of Emperor Tianshun of the Ming Dynasty …’, providing further clues to establish the identity of the tomb occupant and the origins of the accompanying textiles. It is believed that the tomb belonged to Yang Qing, who once held the position of Henan's inspector and passed away in the first year in the reign of Emperor Tianshun of the Ming Dynasty.
In January 2014, the Key Scientific Research Base of Textile Conservation (Chinese Silk Museum) took up the task of preserving these discoveries. They visited the Tongxiang Museum to extract data from the textile artifacts, drafted a restoration plan, and carried out the preservation efforts on twelve cultural relics upon approval.
四合如意云紋緞獬豸補(bǔ)圓領(lǐng)
據(jù)《明會(huì)典》《明史·輿服志》記載,洪武二十四年(1391) 規(guī)定,官吏所著常服為盤領(lǐng)大袍,胸前、背后各綴一塊補(bǔ)子，一至九品所用禽獸尊卑不一，藉以辨別官品。此袍服補(bǔ)子上的動(dòng)物怒目圓睜，額頭上有明顯犄角，稱為獬豸（XieZhi），為風(fēng)憲官之常服。獬豸形象在中國(guó)古代服飾中已存續(xù)兩千余年，從先秦到明清，其形象被當(dāng)成監(jiān)察、審計(jì)和司法官員廉明正直、執(zhí)法公正的象征，被當(dāng)成“法”的化身，在各種場(chǎng)合被經(jīng)常使用并作為監(jiān)察御史和司法官員等的身份標(biāo)志。
《罪惟錄》卷四《冠服志》亦云:“圓領(lǐng)前后有補(bǔ)，文武分，文從禽，武從獸，惟風(fēng)憲官用豸補(bǔ)。”
《五雜組》卷十二《物部四》也說:“國(guó)朝服色以補(bǔ)為別，皆用鳥獸，蓋取古人以鳥紀(jì)官之意。文官惟法官服豸，其余皆鳥，武官皆獸?！?/span>
這頂烏紗帽出土?xí)r未見帽翅，但插孔清晰可見。烏紗帽內(nèi)原本應(yīng)有網(wǎng)巾，雖已殘，但金網(wǎng)巾圈尚存。
素緞六合一統(tǒng)帽
六合一統(tǒng)帽，俗稱瓜皮帽。用六片羅帛拼成，士大夫與市民百姓皆可戴，相傳為明太祖所制，寓意著一統(tǒng)山河、六合一統(tǒng)，有著強(qiáng)烈的政治寓意。
四合如意云紋緞直領(lǐng)
緞鞋
素緞貼里
素絹背心
纏枝蓮紋花緞棉被
福壽巾
關(guān)注我們
×
